County Cork
Eat first, then drive: a food city on the Lee, harbour towns along the coast and three peninsulas, Beara, Sheep's Head and Mizen, reaching into the Atlantic. Cork is Ireland's largest county, and it takes time.
Ireland, county by county.
All 32 counties covered, with ready-made itineraries, a planner whose drive times you can plan around, and practical guides written for visitors and for the diaspora coming home. The photography is from Ireland itself.
Featured counties
County Kerry
The classic road-trip county: the Ring of Kerry, the Dingle Peninsula and Killarney's lakes under the Reeks. Start early and the big drives are yours for a while.
County Galway
The city runs on festivals and music, and west of it Connemara opens out: bog, mountain and lough under the Twelve Bens. The Aran Islands sit offshore, on their own older rhythm.
County Antrim
The coast does the work here: basalt columns at the Giant's Causeway, ruined castles on the cliffs and the Antrim Coast road tying them together. Belfast anchors the south.
County Dublin
Georgian squares and literary pubs in the centre, and the bay an easy ride away: Howth, Malahide and Dalkey along the coast. The capital repays two or three days at least.
County Clare
Traditional music runs the evenings from Ennis to Doolin, and the days belong to the coast: the Cliffs of Moher and the limestone Burren behind them.
Ready-made itineraries
Dublin & the East in 3 Days
A first taste of Ireland built around the capital: the city's landmarks, the monastic valley of Glendalough, and the ancient Boyne Valley.
The Southwest in 5 Days
Cork, Killarney and the great peninsulas: the Ring of Kerry, Dingle, and Ireland's food capital coast.
Wild Atlantic Highlights in 7 Days
The essential Atlantic seaboard: Kerry, the Cliffs of Moher, Galway, Connemara and Westport, at a pace that lets the west work on you.
Your Irish roots
Seventy million people worldwide carry an Irish name. Find where yours was rooted, read the census your grandparents were counted in, and follow the records home.
Where does your Irish name come from? The Irish surnames map: 795 surnames from the 1890 registers, their Irish forms and meanings, and the counties each was rooted in. The 1926 Census is free. How to find your grandparents in the first census of independent Ireland. Trace your Irish roots: the step-by-step pathway through Ireland's free records.
Latest guides
Sean's Bar: A Pint in Ireland's Oldest Pub
Sawdust on the floor, a turf fire lit since mid-morning and a Guinness World Records certificate behind the bar. Sean's Bar in Athlone traces its story to about 900 AD. Here is how that claim holds up, and what the place is like to drink in now.
10 Things You Likely Didn't Know About Ireland
A Belfast-built ship, a saint who wasn't Irish, a brewery that made the state turn its harp around. Ten true stories that change how you see the island.
Plan Your Perfect Ireland Itinerary
Build an Ireland itinerary around Dublin, Galway and Belfast, mixing the main sights, traditional music, great food and time outdoors, without rushing.
The Irish in the USA
Ireland did not stay in Ireland. Irish in USA is the section for the American half of the story: 694 listings across 50 states, every one checked against its official website: Irish pubs and restaurants in the USA, St Patrick's Day parades, festivals and Highland games, heritage places and cultural centres, state by state. Its restaurant reviews say what it is like at the table, starting in Florida, one restaurant at a time.